[When in Paris] Tips on Paris and the Parisienne

            The difference between the traveler and the tourist are never so much more evident than when visiting the “City of Lights.” Annually, Paris sees almost three times its population in tourism, accounting for 30% of France’s GDP. The tourist would claim that Paris is an expensive city to visit, while the traveler would claim that it, as New York City, Chicago, Rome or Berlin, are affordable, that is, if one who visits is adventurous enough to search for the almost unbelievably inexpensive accommodations and cuisine available throughout the 21 arrondissements.

            From a vast empirical standpoint taken from the legions of notes I’d made when visiting Paris in March of 2017, here are a few interesting sociological and economical facts, along with dispelled myths that can prove helpful to those who are planning to visit or have and planning a return.

Learn to speak introductory French: With tourist constantly bombarding their city from English speaking nations almost year-round, most Parisiennes (Paris natives) have learned enough English to make themselves helpful to browsing visitors. Learning French is not just a novelty; it displays a respect for French language and culture while simultaneously debunking their widespread belief that (primarily Americans) feel so entitled as to feel that their language must be accommodated everywhere they go.

  

While the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Pompidou, the Arc de Triomphe, the Bastille, the Catacombs, Versailles and the Roué de Paris attract most, if not all, visitors, you’ll rarely encounter even a lifelong Parisienne who has ever frequented either if any.

Tourist areas are designed around making the most income from the least amount of consumer goods. There are 21 arrondissments (neighborhoods) in Paris, designed clockwise, the 1^st arrondissment being the Left bank at center, winding around to the rest until reaching the outermost borough. The 1^st (Louvre), the 2^nd (Bourse), the 5^th (the Latin Quarter/Odeon/St. Germaine) and the great 18^th (Montmartre) are the most concentrated with visitors. The average tourist may pay an average of $35/meal and $100+/night for hotel accommodations. These costs can be reduced if the time is taken to browse, talk to denizens, ask around. My favorite part of Paris, the Latin Quarter, where one can find both the original and new Shakespeare and Company, there are full 3-course, excellent meals available starting at $14/meal. An establishment of note, of Greek cuisine, Maison De Gyros, is located at 24 Jardin du Roy in St. Germaine.

If you happen to be walking the spacious and vast sidewalks of any arrondissement, be attentive, when coming head up with a Parisienne, it is perhaps a social mystery in itself, that they always head towards the walls or away from the street, allowing you to pass with the most space to maneuver.

Once you’ve spent a few days in Paris, you’ll notice that Parisiennes eat just as much as Americans; the difference, Parisiennes walk, they are more mobile than the average Americans. I’ve witness women in 6-inch heels out pace me on the streets and while ascending subway stairs.

Paris, historically, was/is the center of literary evolution. F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway, James Baldwin, Sherwood Anderson, William Bourroughs, Henry Miller, Anais Nin, Djuna Barnes and many more made their names world renown while residing there. The legacy of literature is still very much alive there; while on the subway, on the bus, walking the numerous cemeteries so artistically designed over centuries, you’ll notice people reading. Paris is a city of great literacy, where books are sold in amazing quantities along the quai daily and consumed without restraint. While at a party on the Rue de Montmartre, vague mentions of my writing led to 7 of the partygoers to get out their phones and order copies of my novels. It is a city for writers, both established and aspiring.

No shame is attached to human emotion in Paris. Don’t be surprised to see women crying unabashed in public, couples kissing for great amount of time in the middle of the sidewalk, on the subway, during café conglomerates. After leaving De Gaulle, a Parisienne is tremendous misery completely came out her misery, helped me with directions and afterwards returned to her depth of tears.

Parisiennes adore their pets; Walking along the crowded districts, you’ll see dogs and cats asleep in window displays in various stores while their owners are working. There is only a leash law in the subways in Paris, so during your late-night outing, having drinks, meeting new people, more than likely, you’ll see a cat resting comfortably on top of the bar or at times, jumping onto your table, curiously wandering who you are.

Leaving tips for service is considered extremely rude in Paris. Remember this is the birthplace of the bourgeoisie and the former occupied streets of the Commune; to tip is to throw your money into someone’s face, upset and emphasize a class system that separates the “have” from the “help;” If you wish to leave a tip, always ask if it’s okay.

In terms of fashion, Paris, as it has always been, is years ahead of everyone. Women usually go natural, aren’t “curvaceous” as the average American woman, go without make-up to work but with it on outing and to the grocery store. In the Winter, Parisienne women wear dark make-up and ankle boots.

Paris is a city that takes great pride in its rich and lengthy history; this is seen with teachers taking their students on everyday field trips amongst the city, amongst the people, classrooms replaced with visions and structures that once stood as the tallest in the world.

[For more notes on Paris, stay tuned]